Tourists have been flocking to Western North Carolina for centuries, attracted by the mountain scenery, hiking trails and hundreds of waterfalls. Luxury inns cater to these visitors with all-inclusive gourmet meals, hiking guides, spas, golf courses and upscale but relaxed accommodations.
Here are three of my favorites where I discovered a love for winter hiking, felt soothed by a sound healing/yoga class, watched an unofficial parade of classic cars, sharpened my badminton skills, lazed in front of a wood-burning fire and watched the sun rise over four mountain ranges.
The Swag
2300 Swag Road
Waynesville, North Carolina 28785
theswag.com
“Prepare for joy,” our yoga/sound healing teacher Barb said during our class. It was a lovely sentiment; however, I’d been in a permanent state of joy from the moment we walked into the Welcome Cabin at The Swag.
Located on 250 acres at an elevation of 5,000 feet, The Swag, a Relais and Châteaux property, consists of several buildings made with rough-hewn logs. There are 17 unique rooms in cabins and lodges, some with outdoor showers or tubs, indoor saunas and fireplaces.
We stayed in Will’s Room in Chestnut Lodge where we had an outdoor shower and a wood-burning fireplace. The front porch had a table where we ate lunch one day and rocking chairs perfect for taking in the mountain views.
The property shares a one-mile border with Smoky Mountain National Park so it was easy to grab our walking sticks and hit the trails. Adding to the charm of the property are hideaways where you can lie in a hammock by a stream or relax at a mountain overlook.
Other activities include cocktail classes, wine tastings, croquet, corn hole, fly fishing, spa treatments, horseback riding and classes with their Experts-in-Residence program. Naturalists, artists, photographers and storytellers visit for a short time and host classes and lectures. During our visit, professional hiking guide Matt Dobson shared his tales from the trails and led us on a nature hike, sharing the area’s history and pointing out a 300-year-old cherry tree.
In addition to its stunning natural beauty and amazing service, a highlight of The Swag and the feature that elevated it to the top of our favorite places was the food. The resort is all-inclusive with little opportunity to build up an appetite, but we didn’t let that stop us.
Breakfast includes items like a breakfast sandwich, French toast, build your-own-omelet and a chef’s special. Lunch items like sandwiches and Thai chicken salad are selected the day before and packed in a backpack, bag or picnic basket. A highlight was the Chef’s Picnic on Gooseberry Knob, a huge grassy area where we feasted on burgers, salmon and fried chicken.
Dinner is a four-course meal with soup, salad, entrees like filet, Artic char and mushroom risotto, and dessert.
Historic Tapoco Lodge
14981 Tapoco Rd
Robbinsville, North Carolina 28771
tapoco.com
At the top of my list of favorite activities are hiking in the woods, dining outdoors with a water view and relaxing in a hot tub. I got to do all of these at Historic Tapoco Lodge, tucked into the Nantahala National Forest.
A former boarding house for workers of the Tallassee Power Company, Tapoco opened in 1930 and has six lodge rooms, three lodge suites and 18 cabin rooms on 120 acres on the Cheoah River. There’s a small spa, free yoga classes and tennis courts.
One afternoon we hiked one of the several trails with views of the Cheoah River, remains of an old moonshine still and a rapid elevation change that got our heartrates pumping.
An unexpected treat was the unofficial car show. Tapoco is located just minutes from Tail of the Dragon, an 11-mile stretch of U.S. 129 with 318 curves that attracts car enthusiasts who drop in for a drink or a meal, leaving their immaculately restored classic cars in the parking lot.
“The food alone is worth a return visit,” my husband Chris said as he bit into his black and blue burger at the Tapoco Tavern as we sat on the huge deck area overlooking the rushing river. Dinner that night was just as delicious and included a ribeye, grilled Carolina trout and fried okra.
High Hampton Resort
1525 Highway 107 S
Cashiers, North Carolina 28717
highhampton.com
After the team behind Blackberry Farm purchased the 101-year-old High Hampton and reopened it in 2021, the “Dirty Dancing” vibe is gone along with the buffet meals and rustic dining room furnishings. Meals are now seated and the former all-inclusive feature is optional. Along with the Dining Room and The Tavern in the inn, there are three other dining venues: Halsted House, Range House and Mitch’s Lakeside.
High Hampton maintains its vibe of laidback luxury with rocking chairs on the front porch, a huge lobby with a four-sided fireplace and several game tables. We checked out a board game and my husband beat me at “Mystery Date.”
The 1,400-acre property includes a Tom Fazio-designed golf course, lake, pool, children’s activity center, croquet lawn, spa, fitness room, hiking trails and six pickleball courts. Activities on the 35-acre lake in the warm weather include swimming, canoeing, paddle boarding and kayaking.
Accommodations include 18 inn rooms, 40 cottage rooms and three cottages. Our room in the inn had a balcony overlooking the lake, mini fridge, a huge bathroom with a bathtub and two sinks. The dark paneled hallways are lined with historic photos and pages from the original hotel registry books from decades ago.
